Nicky Ward-Allen posted a 16:43 second foot lock at the Waikato/BoP Regional TCC on Saturday - over two seconds shy of her world record.
However, you have to remember that only two years ago Nicky's time would have beaten the standing world foot lock record held by another kiwi woman climber, Dunedin's Elena O'Neill.
What's Nicky's secret? Apart from practice, practice, practice and an excellent foot lock style, Nicky has got a few 'secret weapons'.
Have a look at the picture below. Note the position of her foot lock prussic. It wraps around the back of her left shoulder and is attached by a short bungee to her collar. This keeps it well out of the way of her arms, making ascent just that much smoother.
Also note the rope - Teufelberger Globe 5000. Globe 5000 is a super static (read 100% static), 10mm, lightweight line, perfect for foot locking. Nicky has broken two world records this year on Globe 5000.
Another 'secret' is Nicky's footwear - Scarpa Pro Ascent
climbing boots. She did not wear these boots to break her latest world record (the boots did not arrive in time) but they are proving to be a real benefit
- more world foot lock records in the future perhaps?
Womans world foot lock record holder Nicky Ward-Allen at the Waikato/BoP Regional TCC at Hamilton Lake Domain on Saturday 11 September.